Yampi Sound

Our first real challenge of the Kimberley had arrived – crossing King Sound. King Sound is synonymous amongst boaties for some complete horror stories – 6-foot standing waves, whirlpools, tides running at up to ten knots – so it was understandable that I was completely nervous and trying to make sure we had a smooth passage across from Cape Leveque.

Our intent was to passage from Cape Leveque in a more or less straight-line northeast cutting across the top of King Sound to Hidden Island, a distance of about 33nm. The main issue was that we need to cross Sunday Strait, which is where the water is funnelled in and out of the sound between the various islands and shoals and where the tide runs its hardest. The chart for this area, AUS733, marks Sunday Strait with an indicator of tide current at 5 – 10 knots!

We had left Broome with enough time up our sleeve to be at Cape Leveque in time for the start of neap tides – which is the period when tides are at their smallest. This would still mean a tide in excess of 2 metres; but that sounds a lot better than a tide of more than 9 metres during spring tides!

And so, after much cross referencing of tide tables, current maps, weather forecasts, reading other sailor’s notes and blogs we decided that Monday 15th July was our day. First day of neap tides and little to no wind, as one of my main concerns was getting 15 – 20 knots of wind opposite to 2 or 3 knots of current which makes for a very ugly sea.  Our mates on ‘The Gathering’ were also going to cross at the same time and so that provided some comfort that my planning was on song and also, we would have someone else around if things went a bit pair shaped.

At 4.45am we pulled the anchor in the dark from our anchorage on the east side of Cape Leveque and started to make our way east past Swan Island and Karrakatta Rock and out into the mouth of King Sound. We had departed with a couple of hours of flooding tide remaining, that is the tide is coming in and so our plan was to run with the current into the sound and then at slack water, the period when the tide stops and turns, be at the middle of Sunday Strait.

As the sun rose, we had a light easterly and were able to sail for a short while, however I had committed to getting across this piece of water as expediently as possible and so I had engines on, and we were on track. We got to Sunday Strait right on the time however the tide currents weren’t quite as predicted and so we were putting up with a bit of current on our nose and we weren’t setting any speed records, but ultimately it was safe and uneventful! At it’s peak I had 30 degrees of compensation on to combat the tide current and keep the boat tracking in the right direction – that is proper sideways movement!

The most exciting part of the journey came when we got to Dickenson Shoals, which is a shoal that runs right across from Dorney Island in the south to the Bedford Islands in the north and only about 5 miles from Hidden Island. As we approached you could see a change in the water as there was a tide overfall (when the tide current breaks like a small standing wave as it passes over a shallower area) and as we crossed it the current instantly went from nearly two knots on our nose to the same but from behind!! As we travelled across the next 2 miles, we were passing through big tide boils and the boat was getting buffeted from side to side, which was a little daunting, but I was thinking if this is neap tides what does the big spring tides look like!

Suddenly we had arrived at Hidden Island and just as we got close to Silica Beach, our destination, ‘The Great Escape’ a large charter vessel pulled out of there and so we had it all to ourselves. Known as a bit of a tricky anchorage I was edging slowly into the bay and with ½ mile to go it was still 50metres deep, so I was thinking ok this is going to be fun, but it suddenly rose quickly, and we were able to drop our anchor in about 17 metres of water. Yep – 17 metres of water – which is super deep for us who spend a lot of time anchored in less than 5metres and so we saw a lot more chain come out of the locker than normal!

The scenery was stunning and after some lunch we had Bob in the water and were off for an explore. With a running commentary on how a crocodile can stalk and eat you, we had a quick explore around the corner in a cool little inlet with amazing rocks and scenery before making our way to the beach and getting sandy without being eaten! Silica Beach is named after the fine white sand on its beach, apparently the only spot in the Kimberley like this. We thought the sand was just like Lucky Bay in Esperance, super white and squeaky to walk on.

We hiked to a high point on the island and just sat and took in the views across Yampi Sound and to be honest we just couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. This little area was filled with birdsong, and we were surprised at how many large trees were present.

After an amazing windless night, we left with the tide early the next morning to make our way the short distance across to Coppermine Creek. We had enough wind to sail but I was running one motor to keep us on track as we had quite a bit of reef and small rocky islands to navigate, and we were being punted around by the tide current in all directions. We had two knots of tide behind us, then across us, then behinds us etc so it was an interesting little passage for us to get to learn what we will be facing for the next few months.

We arrived at the mouth of Coppermine Creek and slowly made our way upstream. Plenty to explore here and so we dropped anchor about a third of the way down and spent the afternoon exploring in the dinghy. Scenery was amazing again, large rock faces interspersed amongst the trees, dropping away straight down into the water. We poked around for quite a while hoping to catch a glimpse of a crocodile but nothing doing!

Our final explore was into a gorge like area and once inside we cut the motor and were just drifting whilst I threw a few lures. Completely quiet, amazing scenery and then I turned around to see a croc sitting just 15metres behind us watching us intently! Only a small guy but wowzah did he sneak up on us! After Nic climbed off my shoulders we got to have a good look at him before returning to the boat. The next morning, we had a 2.5metre fella circle Singularity and so we knew we were well and truly in croc country.

We decided to move further down the creek and past a small island where a beautiful anchorage awaited and where ‘The Gathering’ were sitting. After pulling up the guys gave us a call and invited us to come on a hike up to some waterholes they had spotted on Google earth. We were in that like a shot so after prepping all of our camelbacks, snacks and hiking gear we were in the dinghy and over to visit Seb and Corban @ ‘The Gathering’.

Turned into a great day with some serious hiking for a few hours up to some small swimming holes. Walking in the Kimberley is really tough with lots of spinifex, rocks – in the large, small and loose category, as well as other hazards like green ants that come off branches as you brush by and then bite the hell out of you!!

Both Nic and I took a tumble at different times, and we needed to remind ourselves to slow down and be extra cautious, especially as the day wore on and some fatigue kicked in. A great day and great intro to Kimberley hiking and swimming!

We had some great news that our travelling companions Ted and Tina. ‘On the Double’ were back in Broome and high tailing it to Cape Leveque to make the crossing and join with us. They were forced to turn around at James Price Point after Ted’s Mum passed away in Carnarvon and so had returned home. Great company and good sailing buddies so we were looking forward to catching up and exploring together.

After a couple of pleasant days of birdsong and views we up anchored and headed around to Myridi Bay, only a couple of miles to our east. As the crow flies it was probably less than a kilometre between anchorages but of course we had to come out of this creek, go around the headland and down the next creek. 

We dropped anchor right in front of a 250-foot cliff face and spent a fantastic next three days exploring this little creek. This included a beach day back around the front and to the east where we had a beaut little beach to ourselves. We even managed a couple of quick swims at high tide – water is super clear so after checking for crocs you get to go in about 2 – 3 metres, submerge yourself and then get out! We also flew our drone for the first time which was a little nerve wracking but also fun and will be a cool tool for us.

After two days ‘On the Double’ arrived and we spent a day exploring the creeks and fishing – resulting in a big double hook up where we both got busted off to Nic landing a lovely big blackspotted rock cod. I had caught one the day before and it was very tasty, so we were pretty happy – Cod, chips and salad for dinner!

Next stop was a very special location – Crocodile Creek – which involves coming in up a creek on a high tide and entering a small pool area at the head of the creek where a waterfall flows. There is only room for two boats, and you need to tie off ropes onto the cliff face etc so a bit tricky but looks amazing!

We knew that ‘The Gathering’ had been there for a few days but weren’t sure if they were still there but as we were making our way up the creek Seb came racing around the corner in his dinghy on his way fishing. After a quick chat we confirmed the were staying for another day and so we went with Plan B and that was a few miles further down to Silvergull Creek, with a plan to return the next day to Crocodile Creek.

Silvergull Creek is quite long and extensive but dries out on a low tide, so you need to anchor in an area out the front and then dinghy down, being careful to leave as it becomes too shallow for dinghies once the tide reaches 3.5m.

After anchoring, quick bite to eat and then we were off exploring with Ted and Tina in their dinghy ‘Single File’. Heading into the creek the scenery is breath taking… amazing blue water and rock faces with large dry waterfalls and gorges at every turn. Our main goal was to go and check out Phil and Marion’s camp, which is located on a headland down towards the bottom of the creek.

Phil and Marion were yachties in the 80’s and came across Silvergull Creek and decided to make it their home. The site they chose had a freshwater spring which had been set up as a supply of clean freshwater for vessels in the area way back in the70’s when the Koolan Island mining was getting set up. Phil and Marion lived there for twenty years, before Marion passed away and Phil returned for a few years before departing. An amazing tale and they would have done it hard getting it things built etc, but they were famous amongst visiting yachties and others for their hospitality and lack of clothes!

A large water tank had been set up as a swimming pool with freshwater constantly running through it, shaded by trees and looking out across the water – amazing. After exploring around the camp, we were in for a swim; the water was cool but the water entering through a large pipe was warm so made for a lovely shower.

After a couple of great hours, we headed back out to the boats to prep for our run into Crocodile Creek in the morning.

What a way to start the journey into the Kimberley with a stay in the iconic Crocodile Creek. We left Silvergull with time up our sleeve as there were a few other boats in the vicinity and we wanted to ensure we had the anchorage at the creek head. At about 10.45am ‘The Gathering’ were on the move and we sat just outside the creek entrance awaiting them and after a quick chat as we crossed bows, we slowly followed On the Double into the winding creek.

The Crocodile Creek anchorage consists of a small hole right tucked up amongst the cliffs and rocks at the very top of the creek. It is an anchorage that you can’t see until you literally turn the last corner and then the rock wall is about 75 metres ahead of you. The whole creek dries out at about a tide of 3.5metres, the only exception being the hole, which is wide enough to fit two catamarans and a couple of small tinnies, if everyone is rafted up together. At the top end is a ladder which at lower tides you climb to reach the bottom swimming hole, which is filled via waterfall from a swimming hole above it. As the tide lowers a waterfall appears at the bottom next to the ladder and as the tide continues to run out you become landlocked with a small island appearing about 15 metres off your bow.

On the Double entered first and I hung in the creek just holding our position against the tide and not wandering too far as there are quite a few obstacles to avoid – which you can’t see at high tide! We launched Bob and Nicky took him in to help Ted and Tina secure On the Double. As you enter the hole you need to turn you boat backwards and then drop your anchor before securing side and rear with ropes off the rock face…. Tricky!!

Before long we were carefully nudging our way in and after some deft manouvering we were rafted up (tied alongside) with On the Double. We were all completely in awe and so excited to be in there… with some trepidation about how things would work when the tide went out – would our ropes be in the right place? would we touch the bottom? are there crocodiles in the swimming hole?

We needed not have worried too much and we had an epic four days in this spot, punctuated with hikes to more cascading waterfalls and swimming holes, ridge climbs with views across the archipelago, swims and beers and much appreciation of the wonders of this spot watching the tide come and go and literally rise and fall nearly ten metres every 6 hours!

On the day of our departure, we needed to wait until about 1pm before the tide would be high enough to untie our ropes and safely slip out. Everything went to plan and both boats quietly exited the hole and slipped back down to Silvergull Creek with big smiles on our faces – very contented cruisers!

The next day was a logistics day – some jobs to be done around the boat; motor around the corner to the fuel barge at Dog Leg Creek and refuel both diesel and unleaded. $4 a litre but considering the location it’s fair enough! They also have a stock of drumsticks – same price as Rottnest funny enough – so we naturally took one of those for the run back to Silvergull.

Returning to Silvergull we were about 90 minutes from high tide, so we motored all the way down to Phil and Marions place and took turns to tie up alongside the freshwater hose and give our boats a quick rinse, top up the water tanks and have a quick freshwater shower up on the deck.

Another really interesting day and we were all super excited as tomorrow the three boats, Singularity, On the Double and The Gathering were heading down the canal past Koolan Island and into unchartered territory!