Hedland Reunion

I counted 47 ships in the anchorage off Port Hedland; all iron ore carriers and all awaiting their turn to enter and load up on iron ore. The turnaround is about 12 ships a day, every 24 hours at Port Hedland and it is carried out with military precision, empty ships entering on low tide and the loaded ships leaving on full tide, some with literally only 1 or 2 metres below their keels. The marine radio was full of chatter with ships reporting positions, departures and accepting pilot details and entry times.

It was another day of light winds and we were motoring our way over the final few miles into Port Hedland. There is no real anchorage here, yachts and the odd stink boat anchor in an area adjacent to the shipping channel, just outside the harbour. And when I say adjacent I mean 200 metres from the edge of the channel, so is subject to the wake of tugs and ships operating 24/7.

We were entering on high tide so there was a steady stream of loaded ships exiting the port from the various berths, each escorted by three tugs. The anchorage is on the east side of the channel and there is no real access from the west side as it is very shallow. My intent was to call up Hedland VTS (Vessel Traffic Services) and seek their permission and advice to enter the channel and then exit into the anchorage. About a mile off the channel, at marker 33 in fact – which is located about two miles from the anchorage, I gave them a call and they advised that it was a busy day with no breaks between ships for another two hours. A few minutes later they gave me a call on the radio asking for my mobile number and then gave us a call on the phone. As it was high tide they recommended passing straight across the channel, behind the ship that was departing right in front of us, and then coming into the anchorage just outside the channel which would have more than enough water. The plan was agreed and once the ship had sufficiently passed, I cut behind it and soon we were dropping anchor.

Jemma was at work, so we dropped her a message letting her know we had arrived and about 5pm I went in and picked her up in the dinghy and brought her back to Singularity. Hugs all around and then a lot of catch-up chatter. Jem is working for an indigenous corporation as a Community Engagement Officer and loving the Hedland life – which we were really stoked about. She had recently been selected to participate in Youth Parliament, brought on by her passion for her role and the realities she had seen of how policy and legislation affects the population at street level. Go Jem!

It didn’t take long to see why this is not a popular anchorage with yachties. A constant stream of ships and tugs only 200metres away, each creating some serious wake had us getting some serious rock’n’roll going on. The worst culprits were the tugs when they were heading out alone to meet an incoming ship, the first tug was always going hard to get the distance out to meet the ship and throwing up a massive wake which rolled straight through us. This went on for the next three days – including wake up calls at 2.30am!

Jem was working each day but planned to stay on board so we could catch up over dinner etc and hang out so it was really great to have that time. In the mornings we would rise with a coffee on the front deck and then take her in and drop her to her house, making use of her vehicle during the day. It was great to see where she was living and her set up which was nice and comfortable, as well as meet Banjo, an elderly dog she was looking after. We had the usual chores of laundry, refuelling via jerry cans, a light provision and I also needed to undertake the first service on our new outboard to complete over a couple of days.

We had plenty of time to get some walking in around Port Hedland as well as a drive around some of our old haunts in South Hedland. We had arrived in Hedland in 1994 so whilst some things were the same a lot had changed – for the better of course and it certainly had grown. Back in our day there was only BHP in the port but now there is BHP, FMG and Roy Hill all pushing rocks around, so it is very busy.

We caught up with Nic’s boss from Rotto, Bec and her husband Matt, who skippers tugs for BHP and had a coffee at the Dome – which incidentally probably has the best view of any Dome anywhere! Memories were kindled as we walked the streets past the Pier Hotel, Hedland Emporium and the old courthouse.

With a planned departure on the Friday, Jemma was able to finish at lunchtime on the Thursday and so we had a bit of a drive around Port Hedland, mainly up through Cooke Point and Pretty Pool. I was able to fill in a few gaps for Jemma about the days of the Cooke Point detention centre, with its riots and other shenanigans; we visited the now derelict Cooke Point Rec Club – which was the Friday night go to; and then on to Pretty Pool which was our adopted beach and now Jem’s adopted beach!

Friday morning soon arrived and it was hugs and tears as we said our goodbyes in the carpark of the boat ramp. Jem disappeared off to work and we headed back out to Singularity – next stop Broome!

We still had some east ground to make and of course the wind was semi-light – but from the east!

After a great couple of days we quietly slipped into the channel and departed, making our way east towards 80 Mile beach.